Ladies Clothing Patterns for the 19th Century (1800s)

1830s Full High Gown.
by Past Patterns #003

   The Hermitage gown is dated to the 1830's by its rectangular skirt panels and dropped shoulders with gigot sleeves. In 1836 the gigot sleeves became unfashionable and were replaced with a sleeve that had a fullness below the elbow. Before 1836, fashion plates illustrated the hem at ankle length, but after 1836 the hem descended to the instep. The gown closes in the back with four hooks and eyes; one at the neck and three on the waistband.

   Sizes 10-14 require 7 1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require 7 3/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

1830s Full High Gown #003 by Past Patterns. Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $14.00 each

Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown
by Past Patterns #031

   The #031 pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. The gown has no history. It is a day dress. The threads are hand spun and the fabric is hand woven of linen warp and cotton weft. The background is white, interrupted every 7/8 inch by alternate threads of madder red and indigo blue. Unlike today's fabric, the stripes are at a right angle to the salvage.

   Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included, however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.

    The bodice conservatively cut yet it has the fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment. Past Patterns' will be marketing a 1790's-1809 boned stay in 2003.

    The pleated skirt is fullest in the back and flat in the front. A 1-1/2 inch crescent-shaped tuck at center front raises the skirt over the toes.

    This pattern is sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups.

Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown #031 by Past Patterns Price Size Quantity Add 2 Cart $25.00 Dress Size Select Size Dress Size 8-14 Dress Size 16-20 Dress Size 22-26 each

1890's Side Closing Bodices #207 & Circular Skirt #208
by Past Patterns

    Side Closing Bodices. #207

    These two bodices represent the tailored and frilly styles of the Gay 1890s. The small gigot sleeve is particularly attractive to create a broad shoulder line, which in turn gives the illusion of a small waist.

This pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20. All the sizes are in one package.

1890's Side Closing Bodices #207 by Past Patterns Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

    Circular Skirt. #208

    Because the Circular Skirt is not gored, it is quick and easy to sew. This style fits smoothly over the hips.

   The pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20.

1890's Circular Skirt #208 by Past Patterns Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1894 Butterick Pattern Company Tea Gown or Wrapper
by Past Patterns #211

   It was permissible to entertain close friends at home wearing a tea gown or wrapper. The rich could afford to have their tea gown custom made of embroidered silk and expensive lace. The middle class could order their tea gown from the back of the Sears Roebuck or Montgomery Ward catalog or purchase the 1894 Butterick pattern and make their own.

   The waist is drawn in snugly with a self fabric belt or wide ribbon, while the Watteau pleats at center back hang loosely away from the body. The gown pleats are held in place by the smooth fitting yoke. The yoke is self fabric trimmed or finished with lace.

   The leg 'o mutton sleeves make this a stylish garment which rich or poor would find irresistible.

   The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 18.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $19.00 each

1893 Wedding Gown Bodice
by Past Patterns #301

   Worn by Frances Arnold at her marriage to William Chaddock on June 21, 1893. The bodice was ordered from Marshall Fields in Chicago, Illinois. Wear the bodice with the 208 skirt.

   The original fabric is a heavy silk candlelight satin.

   The pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20. This is a pattern for the bodice only.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $17.00 each

1882-1888 Bustle Wedding Gown with Cathedral Train.
by Past Patterns #303

   The bodice fastens by lacing in the front which is drawn through eyelets. The bodice is boned and form fitting. The sleeves are 7/8 length. The neck and sleeves are trimmed with Brussels lace.

   The bustle is created with metal stays in three rows from below the center back waist to the knees. While the bustle is stylish it is not necessary to enhance the gown which is quite lovely without it or the cathedral train.

   The cathedral train is separate. It is trimmed on the inside outer edge with a row of dust ruffles called a balayeuse during 19th century.

   The original fabric was a cream silk faille.

   The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 16.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $29.00 each

1850-1867 Gathered & Fitted Bodice,
1850-1863 Darted Fitted Bodice
or 1850-1867 Fashionable Skirt,
by Past Patterns #700, 701 & 702

    1850-1867 Gathered and Fitted Bodices. #701

   The woman holding the fan is wearing a loose-fitting bodice with bishop sleeves. The front closes with buttons.

   The lady with the umbrella wears the same bodice but has chosen a one piece peg-top sleeve. The front of her bodice fastens with hooks and eyes. Both bodices are fitted into a waistband with gathering or plaiting.

   This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

    1850s-1863 Dart Fitted Bodices. #702

    The seated lady wears full pagoda sleeves fashionable from the late 1850's to 1863. The standing lady wears modified pagoda sleeves which were popular from the late 1850's though 1863. The under sleeve pattern is included.

    This pattern is multi-sizes 10 through 20.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

    1850-1862 Fashionable Skirt. #700

The skirt can be gathered and flounced, knife-plaited or box-plaited. The original fabric of the ruffled skirt and the gathered bodice is a thin cotton. The plaited skirt and the fitted bodice fabric is a light-weight wool plaid.

   This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1860s-1870s Homestead Dress
by Past Patterns #711

   We dated this dress to the 1860s because of the fashionably long shoulder line. The princess style, however, is more typical of the 1870s. The 711 is a very comfortable gown and the unaproned waist is suitable for ladies in confinement.

   This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. Sizes 10-14 require 6-1/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require 7 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 each

Fan-Front Bodice and Flounced or Single Skirt
by Past Patterns #800 & 801

   This fan-front bodice and single skirt were fashionable between 1841-1847. It may also be worn as an 1850s gown because daguerreotypes abound of women wearing the fan-front bodice in the 1850s.

    The illusion of a small waist is created with tucks at the shoulders which are drawn into shirring at the center front waist. The fullness at the center front waist may be fashioned into pleats.

    The bodice is mounted on a form fitting lining. The lining alone may be used as a pattern for a popular variation from the fan-front. The long form fitting sleeves may be made with or without a cap. The bodice is lightly boned and closes in the back with hooks and eyes.

    This pattern is multi-sized 8 through 26 in a B, C and D cup.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $37.00 each

Fashionable Late 1840s to Early 1850s Round Dress
by Past Patterns #803

   The lined and lightly boned front-closing bodice is gathered into a drop-shouldered yoke. The style, with the bodice and skirt attached to the same waistband, is called a 'round dress'. The #702 undersleeve works well with this style of sleeve.

   The original fabric is a printed cotton paisley in red and brown earth tones.

   This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 5-3/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $13.00 each

Lowell Mill Dress
by Past Patterns. #806

According to family records, this dress was worn by Mary Gregg Butler. The original appears to have been made in the late 1820s or early 1830s when the sleeves were full. After the full sleeve fell from favor around 1836, the sleeves on the dress were banded down. The pelerine caplet is worn with the full sleeves.

   The original fabric on the dress with the banded-down sleeves is a fine white cotton print with red, blue and brown flowers, leaves and vines. The fabric for the full-sleeved dress is a large poinsettia with morning trumpet flowers and large broad leaves.

   This pattern is multi-sized 8 through 20. Sizes 8-14 require 7-1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require 7-3/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric. Newly updated in 2008.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $32.00 each

1880s-1890s Riding Habit Ensemble
by Past Patterns. #900, 901 & 902

1880s-1890s Riding Habit Bodice #902

   Riding Habit Bodice is the traditional form fitting, fully darted and high collared style worn with tailored skirts.

   The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 1-1/2 Yds. of 60 inch wide fabric or 2 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 each

1880s-1890s Riding Habit Skirt #900

   The Riding Habit Skirt is the classic full riding skirt with darts at the knees and longer on the left side and front to hide the feet. When walking the extra length is draped around the right hip and fastened at the center back waist with a button and ribbon loop.

Multi-sized 10-20. All sizes require 3-1/4 Yds. of preferably 60" wide fabric to prevent piecing.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $23.00 each

1880s-1890s Riding Habit Trousers #901

   The Trowsers are worn instead of a petticoat. The trowsers are not worn without the skirt. The lady is pictured with the silk knit undervest she would have worn under the bodice.

The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 1-5/8 Yds. of 60 wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 each

1880s Polonaise and Walking Skirt
by Past Patterns #904

   1880s Polonaise and Walking Skirt. This delicate, doll-like ensemble is made of fine white batiste, Valenciennes lace and silk ribbon. An open square neck is an option worn in the afternoon or evening. The skirt is a gored underskirt of unbleached muslin with a white batiste ruffle overlay. The bustle is created at the hips by the drapery.

   This pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All the sizes are in one package. Look at our National Standard size chart for your size. All sizes require 4 1/4 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric for the tunic and skirt ruffles.

    If this dress is made of a printed cotton consider using reproduction calico buttons.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $25.00 each

1820s-1840s Corded Stay
by Past Patterns. #

   The fabric from which the originals were made is undyed fine cotton drill and medium-weight white linen.

   The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. All sizes require 1-1/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1830 Chemises
by Past Patterns. #002

   These two simple chemises can be made with a high or open neck and short or elbow length sleeves. The high neck was embroidered with red thread. Mice teeth needlework finished the neck and sleeve edges.

   The patterns are multi-sized 10 through 20. The high neck requires 2-1/2 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric. The open neck requires 2-1/2 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

A ''Transition Stay'' Fashionable Circa 1796-1806
by Past Patterns. #030

   Detailed Historical Notes explaining and documenting what is unique about a pair of transition stays are included in the pattern package.

   This pattern is sized 8-14, 16-20, 22-26 in B, C and D cups. Sizes 8 through 14 require 1/2 Yd. fashion fabric and 2/3 Yd. lining; sizes 16 through 20 require 3/4 Yd. fashion fabric and 7/8 Yd. lining and sizes 22 through 26 require 7/8 Yd. of fashion fabric and 1 Yd. of lining.

   Reed: Past Patterns sells reed for the stays by the l lb. bundle - $12.00 or by size. Sizes 8-14 $6.00, sizes 16-20 $8.00, sizes 22-26 $10.00.

   Metal Bands: Past Patterns sells the set of metal bands that are inserted in the horizontal breast-bone casings that make a transition stays unique - $3.00 a pair.

   The stay is worn with Past Patterns' #031 Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing Gown. Past Patterns is also developing three high waisted short gowns and two petticoats of the era.

   Patterns for the shift and day cap may be purchased from Kannik's Korner at: www.KanniksKorner.com

   Acknowledgements: Special thanks to Nancy Rexford for editing the Introduction and allowing Past Patterns to reprint portions of "Frocks and Curls." Thanks to the Danvers Historical Society; the Connecticut Historical Society; Ericka Mason at Conner Prairie; Alden O'Brien at the DAR in Washington, DC; the Farmers Museum in Cooperstown, NY; Margaret Ordonez at the University of RI; Kristina Haugland at the Philadelphia Museum of Art; the SPNEA; Paula Richter at the Peabody-Essex Museum; Megan Spagnolo at Western Reserve Historical Society; the Kansas City Museum; the Chester County Historical Society; Marianna Klaiman and The Hermitage, Ho Ho Kus, NJ; the ladies in the workshops at MOMCC; Travellers Rest in Nashville; and Katy Depot in St. Charles, Missouri, who enthusiastically tested the pattern; and the people who generously opened their homes to me when I traveled to research.

   This pattern is copyrighted July 1, 2000 and is for personal non-commercial use only. Dressmakers and other commercial users contact Past Patterns.

   Also available: Linen Kit with Linen Thread, Linen Kit with green or blue Silk Thread. Each kit includes everything needed to make a pair of transition stays by hand.

Price Pattern ONLY or Kit Size Quantity Add 2 Cart Priced From: $9.00 Select Pattern or Kit PATTERN ONLY $9.00 KIT w/ Linen Thread $35.00 KIT w/ Silk Thread $35.00 Select Size 8-14 16-20 22-26 each

A Partially Boned ''Transition Stay'' Fashionable Circa 1793-1820
by Past Patterns. #038

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 each

1898 Hugenot Skirt
by Past Patterns. #1097

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $11.00 each

Edwardian Spectator
by Past Patterns. #113

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $14.00 each

1899 Skirt Waist
by Past Patterns. #1313

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $13.00 each

1899 Shirtwaist
by Past Patterns. #1687

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $11.00 each

1899 Bernard Shirtwaist
by Past Patterns. #1954

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $11.00 each

Edwardian Dress Jacket
by Past Patterns. #210

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1896 Eretria Blouse
by Past Patterns. #212

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $14.00 each

Late Victorian Corset
by Past Patterns. #213

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $9.00 each

1924 Day Dress
by Past Patterns. #2496

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1926 Day Dress
by Past Patterns. #502

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $16.00 each

1926 Evening Dress
by Past Patterns. #503

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $16.00 each

1923 Ladies' Evening Dress
by Past Patterns. #5622

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $17.80 each

1863 Ball Gown
by Past Patterns. #704

   Complete Information Coming Soon

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

19th Century Stays
by Past Patterns. #705

   Complete Information Coming Soon

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1850-63 Drawers and Petticoat
by Past Patterns. #706

   Complete Information Coming Soon

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 each

1850-69 Chemises
by Past Patterns. #707

   Complete Information Coming Soon

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1845-70 Corset
by Past Patterns. #708

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $9.00 each

1850s-Late 1860s Garibaldi Shirt
by Past Patterns. #709

   Complete Information Coming Soon

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1863 Hoop Skirt
by Past Patterns. #712

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $20.00 each

1862-1867 Madame Foy Corset
by Past Patterns. #720

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $9.00 each

1920 Ladies' Dress
by Past Patterns. #7936

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $18.00 each

Victorian Sun Bonnet
by Past Patterns. #802

   Information and Shopping Cart Coming Soon

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $6.00 each

1850 Wrapper
by Past Patterns. #807

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $23.00 each

1850-1870 Sack and Petticoat
by Past Patterns. #808

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $15.00 each

1858-1864 A Sheer Muslin Dress Circa
by Past Patterns. #812

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $25.00 each

1899 Bodice Belts
by Past Patterns. #8233

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $12.00 each

1896 Skirt
by Past Patterns. #8320

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $13.00 each

1896 Ladies' Waist
by Past Patterns. #8355

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $11.00 each

Late 1880-1892 Day Dress
by Past Patterns. #903

   The full skirt is gathered into a flattering point at the waist front and back. Two pockets, one large in the back and another in the front for your watch make this a practical dress.

The original fabric is a cotton plaid, woven in a light blue, white and yellow. The original dress is the one with the puffy sleeves and shirt collar. We replaced the shirt collar with a short standing collar so popular in the practical clothing of the 1880s and removed the puff at the top of the sleeve to give you a style variation.

The pattern is multi-sized 10 through 20. Sizes 10-14 require approximately 5-7/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric; sizes 16-20 require approximately 6-1/4Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $19.00 each

Three Piece Ensemble,
Fashionable circa 1883-18844
Bodice #905, Skirt #906 & Overskirt #907
by Past Patterns.

   Past Patterns' Summer Three-Piece Dress is worn without a bustle. The October 1889 issue Godey's Ladies Magazine states: "The war between a small bustle and none at all still continues. Everyone cannot dispense with this little addition to their figures. Those who can dispense with it, however, are only to glad to do so, and, by making underskirts very full at the back, this can generally be done, even by not quite perfect figures."

   Acknowledgments: Special thanks to The Warren County Historical Society in Lebanon, Ohio and Ericka Mason at Conner Prairie Museum in Fishers, Indiana.

   Order this pattern in sizes 8-14 (bust 31-1/2 - 36-1/2), 16-20 (bust 38-42) and 22-26 (bust 44-48).

   Purchase 45 inch wide fabric in the following amounts:

   Three Piece Ensemble: #905, #906 and #907 in sizes 8 - 14 requires 8-3/4 Yds.; sizes 16 - 20 requires 9 Yds.; sizes 22 - 26 requires 9-3/4 Yds.

Separately:

   #905 Bodice sizes 8 - 14 requires 2 Yds.; sizes 16 - 20 requires 2-1/4 Yds. and sizes 22 - 26 requires 2-5/8 Yds. of 45 inch wide fabric.

   #906 Skirt sizes 8 - 20 requires 3-3/4 Yds.; sizes 22 - 26 requires 4-1/4 Yds.

   #907 Over-Skirt sizes 8 - 26 requires 3 Yds.

Three Piece Ensemble, Fashionable circa 1883-1884 Bodice #905, Skirt #906 and Overskirt #907 by Past Patterns Priced From: $10.00 each Size Select which Pattern(s) Bodice Pattern #905 $10.00 Skirt Pattern #906 $10.00 Over-Skirt #907 $10.00 All Three Patterns #906, #906 and #907 $30.00 Size Select Size Dress Size 8-14 (bust 31-1/2 - 36-1/2), Dress Size 16-20 (bust 38-42) Dress Size 22-26 (bust 44-48). Quantity each Add 2 Cart

1896 Dorcas Apron
by Past Patterns. #993

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Price Quantity Add 2 Cart $9.00 each